Those born in May are lucky in their birthstone. Emeralds have been always believed to be associated with beauty, health and happiness. Ancient Indian culture associated Emerald with mental power and wisdom.
Before other cultures appreciated diamonds, rubies or sapphires, early Egyptians mined and fashioned gems at what is generally accepted to be the world’s oldest source of Emeralds, a site now called "Cleopatra Mines." Explored by Romans during their occupation of Egypt, Emerald knew its way to popularity through Rome, Turkey, Persia and India.
THE MOST DESIRABLE SHAPE AND CUT
Cabochon Emeralds are basically materials that have insufficient transparency or clarity to facet, usually when domed with good green color, will show a great beauty. Cabochons are the oldest way to cut Gems before the world knew faceting methods. Most Royal treasures are set with cabochons.
Faceted Emeralds today come in a variety of shapes: rounds, pears, ovals, emerald-cuts, etc. However, the Emerald Cut or (Octagon) is the most popular and classical shape since gems are sold by the Carat, they have a tendency to be cut first for Weight, then for beauty. The Emerald cut suits the hexagonal crystal and its refractive index, delivering a good yield as well as a beautiful look. Rather than seeing reflections from a stone, an emerald cut allows you to experience the richness of color and inclusions known as "jardin" garden that give Emeralds a unique character.
TRAPICHES: In one of every few thousand of Colombian Emerald Crystals, a very unique natural shape of six separate crystals joined to a centered black core is found-called trapiche. Cutters never facet Trapiches, instead they smooth them into cabochons. Trapiches are one of the most unique natural crystals nature ever produced, highly prized and appreciated by Gem Collectors and Emerald Connoisseurs.
INCLUSIONS AND COLOR
Emeralds are the only major Gemstone expected to have visible inclusions, in fact any Emerald without inclusions are suspected as synthetic or imitation. Emeralds must be green, however a perfect balance is the most desirable color, not too dark and not too light. Not all deep green Emeralds are classified as the best Grades, the purer and more bright the emerald, the more valuable it is even though it is lighter in color.
Although Brazil is a major Emerald producer, Colombian and African Emeralds tend to have the lead in today’s Emerald Market. While the majority of Brazilian Emeralds are clarity and color enhanced these days by using resins, green oil and opticon to hide fissures and cracks and to enhance the color, the majority of Colombian and African Emerald cutters, polishers and miners are still using the commonly accepted way of oiling Emeralds by using colorless oil.
Zambian Emerald that tend to be mostly light to medium in color with a bluish tint, but lively and brighter wasn’t even considered Emerald when first discovered in 1976. Roughs yielded stones so clean that dealers at first suspected they were synthetic, in June 1989 Tiffany’s began advertising Zambian Emerald because Zambian Emeralds tend to be cleaner and brighter. Zambia was the first Emerald producer to give consumers who cannot afford fine top grade Colombian Emeralds a chance to buy unenhanced affordable Emerald.
Colombian Emeralds, especially the ones that are mined from the famous Muzo mine seems to be the most valuable. Because Colombian Emeralds are known to have the best appearance, largest in size and lacking black or gray internal impurities, Emerald dealers choose the Colombian stones as the finest, paying 10 to 20% premium on comparable African or Brazilian materials.
When Brazilians discovered in the early 1960s green crystals identified as beryl but colored by a trace of the element vanadium, many Gem traders and Gemologists refused to recognize them as Emerald for the simple reason that they were not Chromium based Green Beryl. Brazilian miners and dealers fought for the acceptance of this crystal as Emerald until G.I.A. issued a lab report in 1963 identifying vanadium-colored stones as Natural Emerald. Now most experts agree that either Chromium, Vanadium or both may color Emeralds. There is not a distinguishing factor, but the appearance in color and clarity. In fact, the term Green Beryl is a commercially, wrongly used, confusing term. The fact that an Emerald is light in color does not mean that it is a Green Beryl, it may be called light color or washed out color Emerald, but it still may be, less valuable Emerald. Besides, the Green Beryl has a completely different appearance and crystal structure, although it is a member of the Beryl Family. Green, white, yellow and blue Beryl (Aquamarine) often are mined flawless without inclusions and are considered Type I Gemstones. On the contrary, Emeralds including light color Emeralds are Type III gemstones that are "almost always included."
Most jewelers, even some Gem dealers these days are still confused and confusing customers by not understanding the difference. Vanadium-colored Emeralds do not have as many inclusions as Chromium colored Emeralds. When the oversize Chromium atoms stress the Emerald Crystals, it produces internal fissures or what is called jardin "a Garden of inclusions that gives Emerald its unique appearance." Because vanadium-based Emerald is associated in most cases with lighter brighter cleaner Emeralds, often bluish in tone, most inexperienced jewelers do not believe it is an Emerald, even though they conclude it is a natural Green Emerald Beryl Crystals. Regardless of its origin, the difference between Emerald and true Green Beryl is simple: Emerald is the most valuable member of Beryl Family, usually included and is colored by Chromium vanadium or both, while Green Beryl is a less valuable green usually flawless, chemically colored by the presence of iron. In fact, most of the world’s Aquamarine, especially the Brazilian origin, is actually Green Beryl heated until it turns Blue.
INVESTMENT GRADES
Investing in stocks, homes or properties may become worthless, if a real threat is present; people do not run for their lives with gold or dollar bills. But they may with Gems, the most compact and valuable investment of all time. Emerald has been known as one of the best investment among all precious Gems, it can be the best investment if you know...
HOW TO BUY WELL ???
- The BIGGER, the BETTER,….
- As with most Gems, large crystals of good grade Emeralds are much more valuable and rarer than smaller ones.
- Origin does not matter as long as you are buying good grades, but remember, Colombian Emerald will resale for a higher premium.
- Cleaner Emeralds over 3ct with good color may be sold for higher than comparable size diamonds. And if you have to trade off color or clarity, choose relatively clean gems with medium color, rather than heavily included ones with perfect Green Color.
- While a deep green Emerald with a "sleepy" appearance maybe considered commercially good grade, it can’t in any case be considered as an investment grade. Brightness or life is an important factor in selecting an investment grade Emerald.
- Type of inclusions: no doubt that the type of Emerald inclusions affect its value, Emeralds with external fractures and internal excessive carbon or black spots, sleepy or translucent to opaque can not be considered investment grade, even though they are deep green in color.
WATCH OUT FOR FAKES AND IMITATIONS
There has never been a Gem that has had as many types of synthetic or imitations as Emeralds. All the way from Green Glass, Doublet Emeralds, Gilson, Chatham and Hydrothermal Emeralds, not even mentioning the most recent lab grown Emeralds known as Byron. Buy only from reputable dealers and request a Gem Lab Certificate if you are buying an investment Grade. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR, DO NOT GET FOOLED by the BEST deal for investment Grade Emerald. There is no best deal for Gem Grade Emerald.
PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT
Choose an Emerald specialist to design and set your Emerald, most of the diamond setters who are not experienced with softer Gems may damage your Emerald by ignorance and claim that it was oiled to avoid replacement!?! Emerald and all other Gems (including Diamonds) can break, but Emeralds are much more durable than many other Gems such as Opals, Tanzanites, etc. At 7.5 to 8 on Mohs scale of hardness, Emeralds are harder than most steel. After all, Emeralds are more durable than human, if you buy right, you may enjoy a life of a green beauty.
Sources: Emerald by Fred Ward; Consumer Guide for
Colored Gemstones by David Federman
Gem Auction Inc.
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